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Hand-Sewn Christian Religious Vestments

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Linen Seminar!

In Davenport, Iowa – home of Mary Moore Linens!

September 19th – 23rd.

Contact: Kathryn Amato

kathryn.l.amato@icloud.com

I hope to see you there!

You can email me too, if you have questions.

Five days is a long seminar!  It’s important to me that I give as much information as possible during that time; that I cover as many needs as possible.  I will be giving 3 lectures, teaching each one twice during the 5 days I will be in Davenport.

I place a high value upon your valuable time and so I’m very much concerned with efficiency – as were the women of yesteryear who were at least as busy as we are today.  Anything we can do to increase efficiency – without any sacrifice of quality – is desirable.  My emphasis upon efficiency causes me to work linen differently and to teach differently.   The responses I get from my students are different too!  I hear a lot of: “Aha!” and “I never knew that!”  “But, that’s so easy!”

For instance: The process of working linen has two very strongly held traditions:

  1. Straight linens can only be achieved by drawing threads.
  2. Linen must be shrunk before it is worked.

Both these traditions require a great deal of time and are wildly inefficient.  Neither is necessary.

Drawing a thread does not guarantee straight linens.  Drawing a thread is only the first step to achieving straight linens.  My altar linens are noticeably and reliably straight and square.  The only time I draw a thread is when I cut yardage from my bolt.  Stick with me and it is possible that you will never draw a thread again – seriously!   Aha!!!

The amount of shrinkage in a bolt of linen is constant throughout the bolt.  If you know the amount of shrinkage, you can allow for it, making pre-shrinking unnecessary.

Everything I plan to teach you is specifically directed toward making best use of your valuable time – without any sacrifice of quality.  In fact, you’ll find that the quality you achieve will be increased.

I want to address two groups of people who are different from each other only in respect to the amount of time they have available:

  1. Persons who enjoy hand sewing and feel called to help provide altar linens but whose time is limited. These people are of great value and much needed to stitch linens that have already been prepared for stitching.  Every parish Sewing Group needs these people!
  1. Persons who have the time to work fresh linen – right off the bolt; who understand the process of laying the linen out to produce straight linens – both small linens (purificators, lavabo towels and corporals) and large linens (credence cloths and fair linens).

I plan to teach three classes:  The first class is designed to be stand-alone.  The other two classes will build upon it and upon each other.  The major difference between class #1 and the other two is handling fresh linen – linen right off the bolt.  You don’t need to know anything about laying out and cutting to do the stitching!

  1. Stitching Our Small Linens: This class is for people who enjoy hand stitching and would like to support their church by stitching the linens – that have been pre-cut.  I will be teaching how to put up straight hems using the Golden Ruler, squared and mitered corners, light shrinking (and when to do it), Convent hemming and simple embroidery. If time permits, we can also learn to make chalice palls.  Practice linen will be provided without charge.  Lavabo towels, purificators and corporals will be available for purchase.
  1. Laying out and Cutting Small Linens: This class is for people who want to know how to handle fresh linen – right off the bolt.  The class will cover establishing straightness, why drawing a thread is only the first step in achieving straight, square linens, shrinking and shrinkage factors, drawing up standard small linen layouts so that a supply of small linens may be kept on hand to be stitched as needed.  This class will not cover the use of the Golden Ruler as the use of the Golden Ruler was covered in the first class.
  1. Cutting out large linens: This class is for people who want to learn how to work with large pieces of fresh linen – right off the bolt.  The class will cover the process of laying out large linens, uneven miters, the use of a large Golden Ruler and the use of stay-pinning and pinning by centers.  We will prepare a fair linen.

I  am really up for this seminar!  We can get some good work done here!  There’s a possibility that we can sneak in an afternoon to make stoles too!  I’ll bring some and we’ll see.

In Christ –

Elizabeth

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Patterns, Design and Instructions For the Clergy and Laity of All Our Denominations

Vestment PatternBeginning in 1985, I served the Episcopal Diocese of Albany for twelve years as the Diocesan Altar Guild Directress.  As it is the prerogative of the diocesan Bishop to oversee the ministry of the Diocesan Altar Guild, the Bishop established our ministry: To reclaim and re-establish the crafts of vestment construction and linen construction within the Diocese of Albany.  I did this by offering classes, all materials and support.  This project was very well received and we soon had Sewing Groups that met every month established in each of our seven deaneries.  I did quite a lot of driving during those years!

Perhaps you don’t understand that, by 1985 the crafts of linen and vestment construction for our churches had been lost.  How that happened is a long – and interesting – story that I’ll not go into here.  Suffice it to say, when I started out, I had no patterns, no instructions, no nice person to guide me.  It was my ministry to reclaim all that information. That’s continued to be my ministry all these years.

At first I carried out this ministry within the context of our diocese.  And then, following the publishing of my book, Sewing Church Linens, the ministry became national.  While I (somehow!) did not anticipate this consequence at the time I wrote the book, the experience has been a very great blessing.

Although I am retired as the Diocesan Directress, I have continued the ministry here – on line beginning in 1997.  I’ve chosen to continue this ministry for a couple of reasons: First, because the people with whom I work are such a joy.

The second reason I’ve continued this ministry is that I believe in good stewardship. I believe that giving of our time and talent is as important as the giving of our treasure. I believe that the ministry of the Church is to feed the hungry and clothe the naked. I believe that our Church could perform this ministry more effectively if we would spend less money purchasing expensive, ready-made linens and vestments that we could just as well make ourselves. I believe that almost every parish has people who are competent sewers, who are perfectly capable of making handsome linens and vestments – if only they had access to proper, reasonably priced materials, instructions and patterns.  I believe that these people would gladly give of their time and their talent – if only they had a bit of guidance and support. I believe my ministry is to these people; to provide materials, instructions and patterns and to give guidance and support.  I am an outstanding problem solver!

Vestment Pattern

I believed this when I began this ministry in 1985.  I believed it in 1997 when I opened this web site.  I believe it today in 2014 as I celebrate my 75th birthday and my 29th year of this graceful and grace-filled ministry.

I have a funny thing to tell you:  Some of us have intermediate sewing skills (I’m one of these); other’s of us are experts!  Sue Newman is an expert seamstress; so is Nancy Marie Marquette. Experts are people who are comfortable undertaking to build Roman style cassocks (the ones with the 33 buttons down the front).

Some months ago, Sue accepted a commission to build a Roman cassock – with capelet and cincture.  Here’s her finished cassock (the first one Sue had ever made):

Sue's Cassock

 

 

Now, here’s the funny thing: Sue used the Butterick Pattern #6844.   The pattern has the pockets facing backwards.  When Sue contacted Butterick and asked why the pockets were facing backwards, she was told, ‘that’s the way the clergy like them’.  After a bit more research, Sue found that, indeed, clergy did like their cassock pockets facing backward – IN THE DAYS WHEN THEY GOT AROUND ON HORSEBACK!  Backward pockets prevent stuff from falling out when you’re bouncing around on horseback!  Sue solved the problem by inserting pocket slits so the clergy can get at their inside pockets.  I tell you what!  The lore that lies behind our vestment patterns is worth the price of admission!

FYI – Sue also mentioned that the location of the seams makes alterations very difficult.

Please note:  For the pattern for the capelet, go here:  http://www.stnicholascenter.org/pages/costumes/

I hope you enjoy this website!

Vestment Pattern

In Christ’s Love –

Elizabeth

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We are not human beings going through a temporary spiritual experience.
We are spiritual beings going through a temporary human experience.