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Ecclesiastical Fabrics and Trims for Construction Of
Religious Vestments and Robes for Clergy, Servers, Organist and Choir
Catholic, Protestant, Orthodox

Please keep in mind that, ultimately, the beauty of our vestments is determined by excellence of design and workmanship, not by cost.  The use of rich, luscious (expensive!) fabrics is only one way to achieve beauty.  

When we make our own vestments, we are always looking ahead in our liturgical year.  It's not a good idea to get toward the end of Epiphany and suddenly decide the parish needs a new set of Lenten vestments - in two weeks!  I mean, it can be done!  But, it's better to plan ahead a bit more.

LITURGICAL COLORS

Our liturgical colors are a significant consideration for vestment makers.  The more we understand about our color traditions, the richer our designs will be.  As we begin to speak about vestment construction, I'd like you to take a few minutes to visit an excellent website that discusses our liturgical colors.  This site was put up by a priest in my diocese and I think he did an outstanding job with it.  I hope you enjoy it and find it as useful and informative as I have. 

http://fullhomelydivinity.org/articles/colors%20full%20page.htm  

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STOLES

Because I have such a demand for stole kits, the major portion of this page will be devoted to them. Please be aware, though, that other vestments - chasubles, frontals and super-frontals, pulpit falls, dossals, riddles and Bible markers - can be made using the same fabrics.  After you learn to make stoles, you can go right ahead and make other vestments and paraments to match or coordinate.  ('Vestments' are the special items of clothing worn by our clergy during our liturgies.  'Paraments' are the 'hanging' drapery that decorates our altars, pulpits and lecterns.)

Stoles are the most basic vestment.  There aren't very many Christian denominations that do not vest someone in a stole!  In denominations that utilize a wide range of vestments, a stole is almost always used (every chasuble needs a stole, every dalmatic needs a stole, stoles are often worn with a surplice, etc.).  Anyone who wants to construct vestments needs to know how to make stoles competently. 

Stole construction is the most basic vestment-making skill.

And, stoles are both tricky and picky!  What can I tell you?  That's just the way stoles are.  However!  Before you get fussed by this information, let me also say: That's true only of your first stole.  After you've finished your first stole, you know how to make stoles forever. 

When I was just starting out making vestments, I didn't have some kind person to tell me that stoles are tricky and picky.  I struggled!  I could not figure out why I was having such trouble making an item that appeared to be so SIMPLE!!!!  I thought I was just stupid or not sufficiently skilled.  I had an opportunity speak to The Vestment Guru - a lovely, lovely woman named Mary Lou White - this was years and years ago.  She told me, in no uncertain terms, that my difficulties with stoles was completely NORMAL!  Everyone has difficulty with stole construction.

And so, when I began to teach and draw patterns and write instructions, I spent a lot of time on stoles.  A lot of time.  I do believe that I am offering you the very best patterns and instructions because they have come out of years of teaching and listening to my students (the last part is the most important part - LISTENING!). 

While my instructions are voluminous, my customers tell me that they feel as though I am sitting beside them, working the process through; giving them all the information they need.

My patterns are good - the finished stoles do what they are supposed to do.  There are other stole patterns out there and many of them do not do what they are supposed to do. Priest's stoles are supposed to hang straight down - the ends should not 'toe in' or 'toe out'.  The neck curve should be smooth and lie flatly.  Deacon's stoles - well, let's not get into Deacon's stoles right now - later!

All my stole patterns offer two construction methods:

The 'Standard Method' that you see most often.  In this method, the lining and face fabric are cut to the same size and the seam runs along the edges of the stole.  These stoles are usually worked using 'The Pillowcase Technique' (the stole is sewn wrong-side out and then pulled through to the right side). 

The 'Set-Back Method' that you see very seldom.  This excellent method sets the lining back from the edge of the stole by about 1/4 inch.  The effect is a sharp, tailored, professional appearance. 

My advice?  If you want to learn how to make stoles, learn the Set-Back Method!  It turns out a stole with a 'signature look'.

 

Teaching Stole Kits

Before we start talking about what you want, let me tell you what I want: I want you to be successfull.  If you want to learn how to make vestments, you've come to the right place.  I'm your girl!  I will move heaven and earth to make sure you are successful.  The thing I do NOT want is for you to put a project in the back of a drawer because it didn't work for you.  I just hate that!

I don't offer any other kind of kit - no chasuble kits, no dalmatic kits.  (You don't need a chasuble kit - you only need a good set of instructions.)   I only offer Stole Kits.  Because, stoles are tricky and picky (see above), you need to have someone walk you through your first stole.  Why?  Because you need to know 'the tricks of the trade'.  Once you know the tricks of this trade, you'll be off and running - you'll make lots of stole.  You won't be able to help yourself!  Once clergy see how beautiful your stoles are, they'll be beating a path to your door! (You would be amazed by how many of my customers to into business!  Really!)

If you are an intermediate level sewer, you'll do just fine.  In fact, the ones I worry about are the experienced sewers - who construct projects requiring advanced fitting and construction skills like wedding dresses or specialized heirloom sewing.  Every skill has tricks that are particular to that trade (plumbing, horseback riding, tennis, playing a musical instrument).  Stoles are no different and the skills you need in order to make a wedding dress do NOT speak to the tricks you need in order to make a stole.  And that's what my Teaching Stole Kits are all about.

Stoles are really fun to make!  I love to make stoles!  One reason I enjoy stole construction is that I'm way into instant gratification.  While I'm willing to labor over a long-term project, I also enjoy projects that I can finish in a couple of days.  Stoles are like that.

Beware!  Stoles are also highly addictive!  It's impossible to make just one! 

The question I am asked most frequently is: "What's included in the kit?"  Answer: Everything you need to make a stole is included in the kits - except thread. 

My Teaching Stole Kits Include:

The 'Constructing Stoles' booklet, your choice of pattern and all the fabrics necessary to complete the stole. 

You're going to have to tell me which pattern you want: Priest's, New Deacon's or Old Deacon's.  (For a description of these patterns, see below or refer to the page about Patterns.)

 

The fabrics you will receive are: face fabric, interfacing and lining. 

Everything is in there (except the thread!). Once you have the kit in your little hands, you should not have to leave the house until the stole is complete.

My Teaching Stole Kits cost $40 each - all of them are the same price.  Let me tell you how this works: If you were to purchase them separately, the 'Constructing Stoles' booklet and the pattern would cost $27.  This means that, for an additional $13, you are getting all the materials to make a stole that would cost at least $100 if you bought it ready-made.  As well, you get to work with an interfacing and lining that I like very much.  Both are inexpensive and readily available and I tell you where to get them.  This is good!

In addition to teaching you the tricks of the trade, my Teaching Stole Kits show a construction method that I learned years ago and have used ever since. I call this method the 'Set-Back Method' because the lining is set back from the stole edge by about 1/4 inch.  This gives a tailored, sharp, clean look to the stole. It's a real 'signature' look.  I think you will like it as much as I do.  As I mentioned above, my patterns also include the Standard Method pattern. The problem with the Standard Method of construction is that the lining inevitably 'pooks out' along the side of the stole and looks untidy.  That doesn't happen with the set-back method.

Each Teaching Stole Kit contains a sample piece for you to work with - to experiment on.  This allows you to become familiar with how the Set-Back construction method works before you begin working on the actual stole.

Here is a picture taken by a customer - Kathy.  On the left in this picture is the reverse side of a stole worked with the Set-Back method.  Do you see how sharp and crisp it looks?  I like that!  On the right is a picture of Kathy's first stole - the Children of the World tapestry - made from one of my Teaching Kits. (Kathy added the lovely tassels - they're not included in the kit.)  In the middle of this photograph is Kathy's second stole! It's her own design and very beautiful! 

 

These are all made using the priest's stole pattern - you can see how smoothly shaped they are around the back neck and shoulders.

As I mentioned earlier, I offer three clergy stole patterns: Priest's, New Deacon's and Old Deacon's. (A description of each one is given in the section titled 'Patterns' and toward the bottom of this page - after the section about Advanced Stoles.)

Here's a picture of a stole made using my New Deacon's pattern.  The join at the side is a half-knot.  This stole could also be joined using a handsome liturgical pin.  Many museum stores offer such pins: 

 

Note: The Holy Spirit embroidery on this stole was custom done and is not included in the kits.   If you want embroidery on your stoles, we can arrange it.  However!  Not for your first stole.  Let's keep your first stole as simple as possible.

Note: 8/6/11 - I just received an email from a customer with some excellent information!  While this red deacon's stole is tied, I could also have pinned it with a handsome pin.  The problem is finding handsome pins!  Here's the place to go!  www.ScriptureWear.com (I'm sorry, that's not a link - I don't know how to do that.  You'll have to copy and paste.)  I love these pins!  Prices are right too!

Note: I don't show a picture of a stole made with the Old Deacon's stole pattern because I won't use that pattern.

Teaching Stole Kits: Each of my four Teaching Stole Kits cost $40.  Here are your choices:

Polyester Stole Kits. This is my good polyester fabric that makes handsome stoles.  The colors are: Dark green, medium apple green, white, off-white, red, Roman purple (a red-purple), indigo (a blue-purple) and rose. Included in this kit is a second kit that I call The Simple and Beautiful Kit.  This kit teaches you a useful method for decorating vestments, paraments and banners .............. simply and beautifully!  While it's not for everything, it's a nifty thing to know.  If you'd like to see some pictures, email me. 

Dupioni Silk Stole Kits. Dupioni silk comes in jewel tones, is textural and has a lovely sheen.  The colors are: Dark forest green, medium apple green, an olive Epiphany green, white, soft-white, deep Holy Week red, Pentecost red, Roman purple, indigo, rose, bright gold, old gold, silver and black.  Great colors!  And, it's a very nice fabric to work with. 

I am determined that you will be successful with your first stole.  My Teaching Stole Kits are guaranteed.  If you mess up your Teaching Stole Kit beyond all redemption, simply pack up the materials and send them back to me.  I'll send you new materials.  I do this so I can see where you're having difficulty.  I can adjust my instructions so this doesn't happen to other people.  I've always offered this guarantee.  I very seldom have anyone take me up on it.

Note: We can also make up these simple kits in camouflage fabric for use by our military chaplains.  Contact me for information.

Advanced Stole Kits

I also offer Advanced Stole Kits for several reasons:

First, because fabrics in our liturgical colors are not always easy to find.  While all of us vestment makers purchase vestment fabrics from our local fabric stores from time to time, we also know that the 'fashion colors' are not necessarily the same as our liturgical colors.  The good thing about me is that I stock only the liturgical colors.  As well, I offer the liturgical fabrics.

Second, because if you intend to make only one stole, it usually makes sense to purchase the fabrics from me so you don't end up with a large (and, sometimes, expensive) remnant.  I offer cut stole lengths - enough to make one stole.  This is a convenience and, usually, a savings.

Third, the Advanced Kit includes both fringe and trim; you don't have to go searching for them.

My customers often purchase both a Teaching Stole Kit and an Advanced Stole kit at the same time.  Doing so contributes a continuity to their learning process.  It's helpful to complete the Teaching Stole Kit and then, with that experience fresh in your mind (and fingers!), go right into an Advanced Kit.

My Advanced Stole Kits are meant for people who have already constructed a Teaching Stole Kit and are ready to go forward on a work of art.  If you have never made a stole before - even if you are an experienced seamstress/seamster, I do not recommend these kits!  These kits are, however, well within the skill level of an intermediate sewer - IF you have already completed a Teaching Stole Kit!  

Advanced Stole kits do not include either the 'Constructing Stoles' instruction booklet or a pattern.  I expect you to have completed a Teaching Stole Kit and, therefore, you already have the instructions and pattern - there's no sense me charging you for them the second time.

The stoles shown below are pictures of some of the kits I have available.  Scroll down a bit and take a look.  

As you look at these stoles, notice the different fabrics: Damask, brocade, tapestry and dupioni silk.  ('Damask' fabrics are all one color with the pattern woven in - like the upper portions of the green, white and red stoles.  'Brocade' fabrics are the same as the damasks except that the pattern is embellished in a metallic thread - like the orphrey on the red stole.  'Tapestry' fabrics are multi-colored - like the orphreys on the white and green stoles.  An 'orphrey' is a decorative band of colorful fabric.  The raw edges of the orphrey are often secured with a narrow decorative banding called a 'galloon' or 'gallooning'.  The green, red and white stole orphreys are secured with gallooning.  The orphrey on the blue stole is secured with navy piping.  Orphreys may also be simply top-stitched which gives a simple, clean apppearance.)

Notice the red stole: This is the 'Fairford' pattern.  This particular fabric comes in both damask and a matching brocade.  This red stole is constructed of a combination of the red Fairford damask and the red Fairford brocade.  The Fairford damask comes in bridal white, ivory, violet, green, black and blue.  The Fairford brocade comes in gold, ivory/gold, red/gold, violet/gold, black/gold, black/silver and blue/gold.  

Here's some more information about stoles and fabrics: Some fabric patterns work better for stoles.  Fabric patterns that have a small repeat 'fit' the width of a stole.  Ely Crown, Fairford and Winchester are good examples. The Fairford pattern has a 4 inch width of twining leaves that I always use for stoles.  The Winchester pattern has a row of fleur de lys that look wonderful on a stole.  Fairford and Winchester 'cut up well' for stoles. 

The pattern of the green stole is called 'Florence'.  Florence is more difficult to use for stoles because the pattern must be cut in half.  The two 'halves' are then matched.  You can (barely) see on the green stole that the pattern halves become 'mirror images' of each other.  

If you are making only a stole, it's easier to use a smaller patterned fabric.  But, if you're also making a chasuble, you'll want a pattern with a larger repeat and you'll have to make the stole 'work' - as I did with the Florence.  A small repeat fabric works well on a stole.  A small repeat fabric on a large vestment or parament will look 'busy'.

Please note: If you choose, we can design a chasuble or dalmatic to match any of these stoles - or, your custom design. Please contact me for information.

 

 

     

 

(This picture shows you the lovely fleur de lys in the Wichester damask.  You can see that they're just right for 4 inch wide stoles.)

Let's talk for a minute about the design of this group of stoles. I like the 'look' of the single major orphrey placed right at the bottom of the stole ends.  It's as though this long, narrow vestments 'wants' to have visual weight at the bottom.  It looks 'right' to my eye.

The usual method of decorating stoles is with symbols and small orprheys.  I've made lots of stoles with that type of decoration.  The problem I always had was placement: Where do I place the symbols and/or the orphreys?  It seemed that, no matter where I placed them, I wasn't satisfied.  It always appeared that the decorations had been scattered about the stole at random and for no particular reason.  I could never achieve a sense of balance.  Balance is so important - and, your eye will pick it up right away.

Go back and take a look at Kathy's second stole - the red one decorated with a group of small orphreys and the golden cross.  The elements of her design combine to be very similar to the major orphrey on these four stoles.  Both Kathy's design and my major orphreys add a substantial visual 'weight' when they're placed right at the bottom of the stole.  This design gives balance to the stoles.  I like this design.

Notice one more thing: The orphrey on the blue stole is 23 inches long - it's too long; it's too heavy and dominant.  The same is true of the green stole.  It's too much.  The orphrey on the white stole is 18 inches and the orphrey on the red stole is 17 inches.  Better, I think!  The purple stole is 16 inches.

I guess it's odd for me to put up photographs of design 'mistakes' I've made.  But, in teaching, I've found that my students learn more from my mistakes than they do from my (infrequent!) perfections!

While all the photographs shown above are priest's stoles, they may all be constructed using my New Deacon's stole pattern.

Like my Teaching Stole Kits, these Advanced Stole kits include everything you need to complete the stole (face fabrics, interfacing, lining, orphrey, galloon and fringe).  These Advanced Stole Kits do not, however, include either the pattern or the Constructing Stoles instruction pamphlet because, having completed a Teaching Kit, you already have both the pattern and the instructions.  I don't need to sell them to you twice!

I'm very pleased with these stoles!  My customers are pleased with them too.  Gosh, I just sent out a purple stole using the violet Dupioni silk with a special version of the violet Winchester - I'm am so fortunate to have it!  This special Winchester is first quality fabric - however, it's considered to be a second because the color is non-standard.  It was meant to be a violet damask - one color throughout.  The weavers made a mistake and wove the background of a silvery violet.  It is so beautiful!  I added a soft, old gold galloon, matching fringe and used the old gold Dupioni silk for lining.  I had a lot of trouble letting that one out of my workroom!

I have these stoles here in my workroom and I have to say that the photographs do not do them justice.  They're even lovelier than they look here on my web site.  The colors are clearer and richer. The red stole, for instance, as it is shown here appears to be a clear, Christmas red.  In actuality, the color is deeper; a more penitential red.  If you were wanting a Pentecost or Christmas red, I'd direct you toward a different damask and brocade (or tapestry or dupioni silk). 

Constructing a project like this is a highly creative process - I know that!  I know that you want your project to be individual rather than something 'stock' and 'off the shelf'.  We can do this.  It will require a couple of phone calls or emails in which you tell me what you want to achieve and I help you make it happen.  I do this with my customers all the time.  I enjoy it!  518-798-9637.  My email is obunny@roadrunner.com

You can see that there are four types of fabrics available: Damasks, brocades, Dupioni silks and tapestries.  The upper portions of the red stole, the green stole and the white stole as well as the bottom portion of the blue stole are damasks.  The bottom portion of the red stole is brocade (red and gold).  The top portion of the blue stole is dupioni silk.  The bottom portion of the green stole is Verona tapestry and the bottom portion of the white stole is Aragon tapestry.  For your stole, you may choose whichever combination you want. 

The prices of these Advanced Stole Kits depend upon your choice of fabric combination:

$75 - Dupioni silk with damask or brocade

$90 - Dupioni silk with tapestry

$100 - Damask with damask or brocade

$125 - Damask or brocade with tapestry  

I want to emphasize: These Advanced stole kits are meant for people who have already worked through one of the Teaching Stole Kits.  If you have worked through a Teaching Stole Kit, you know how to make stoles and are ready to take on this advanced project.

Epiphany, 2011 -

Here is a photograph I received recently from a British customer:

I really like the linings!  I mean, not for everything but it's a wonderful, rich appearance.  The fabric is cotton quilting fabric.  Interesting idea!

Please take a look at the section toward the bottom of this page titled 'Other Crafts Used For Vestment Construction'. Most of us have other crafts that we enjoy.  Many of them carry over well into the construction of vestments and paraments. 

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Stole Patterns

Notice that I offer my stole patterns SEPARATE from the 'Constructing Stoles' booklet.   If you order a stole pattern, it will NOT include the Constructing Stoles booklet.

Stole Patterns - $12 each

CHASUBLES AND DALMATICS

CHASUBLES: Unlike stoles, chasubles are not 'tricky'. As long as you have a good set of instructions that also make you aware of the 'issues', your first chasuble will turn out just fine.  In my booklet 'Constructing Chasubles and Dalmatics', I make every attempt to tell you what those issues are. 

What are some of those issues?

- Will your chasuble be lined or unlined?  What are the advantages - and disadvantages of a lined chasuble?  Of an unlined chasuble?

- If your chasuble is to be lined, what are the decisions that must be made about the relationship between lining and face fabric?

- If your chasuble is to be unlined, how do you finish the neck opening?

- What do we need to know about the size, shape and placement of the neck opening?

- Whether your clergy vests in an alb and amice or a cassock-alb, you should understand the visual effect of each and consider them to be viable alternatives with individual applications.

- How large should THIS chasuble be - width and length?  How does one determine the proper width and length of a particular chasuble?

- Does the shape of the outside curve have an effect?  What are the alternatives?

- If orphreys are used for decoration, what is the best method for making the orphreys absolutely straight?

- What do I need to watch out for if I construct Y orphreys?  Width? Placement? The actual stitching?

There are more considerations but that list is long enough!  My point is this: It's really helpful to know about these things BEFORE you begin the design process.  A chasuble is not a household item.  If it doesn't turn out just right, you can't, sort of, ignore the short-comings.  This chasuble is going to serve in the church and be worn by a priest at God's holy altar.  Many chasubles as I have made, I still find that constructing such a thing is scary. 

It's scary if you are making the chasuble out of inexpensive fabrics.  It's REALLY scary if you are using expensive fabrics! 

Thirty years ago, when I made my very first chasuble, my priest had purchased pure silk fabric at $100/yard (an unheard of expense back then).  Scared me half to death!  Did I make mistakes?  You bet!  Gracious! 

And, as I struggled with that first chasuble - knowing NOTHING - I vowed that, if I could help it, nobody would have to struggle like that again.

That vow became the beginning of this ministry I have now.  The moment that chasuble/stole/maniple set was installed in the sacristy, I began to write.  And, I never stopped writing - every problem I faced, everything I learned. At least once every week, some nice person calls or emails me with more good information.  And, I knit that information into my booklets. 

I'm going to be putting photographs of your work into this section - hopefully, this week.

DALMATICS:  Patterns for chasubles are fairly simple.  Variations are mostly in width and length and, possibly, a slanted or shaped shoulder seam.  Patterns for dalmatics are all over the place - many styles that vary widely in the shape of the body as well as the shape of the sleeves. 

With dalmatics - and tunicles - size is only one consideration.  And, there aren't very many patterns available.  Fortunately, the construction of a dalmatic pattern is not difficult - there's a front and a back - and they're usually the same - and, both are one piece.  The only difference between front and back will be the size, shape and placement of the neck opening.

About a year ago, Elizabeth Smith brought to my attention a new 'wrinkle' in dalmatic design (actually, it's not a NEW wrinkle; it's a traditional design method that's been around for centuries).  This 'wrinkle' leaves the entire side seam of the dalmatic open.  When Elizabeth told me this, I thought she was nuts!  I could not feature such a thing!  Wouldn't the dalmatic get crooked - or fall off???  Here is a photograph of two dalmatics with open sides. 

 

Whether we're talking about chasubles or dalmatics, the major consideration is the stability of the chalice; that the chalice containing the consecrated wine should not be tipped over. And, this is a legitimate concern.  Chasubles that are very wide have an awful lot of extra fabric being waved around near the chalice.  Dalmatics with wide - and often stiff - sleeves can easily knock over the chalice.

These photographs show the significant advantage of these 'open side-seam' dalmatics - the sleeve does not risk interference with the ministrations of the deacon at the altar; the dalmatic sleeves do not present the risk of knocking over the chalice.  You can see how the deacon's arm is disengaged from the dalmatic sleeve as he reaches for the chalice.

I'm involved in the design a set of dalmatics right now.  The deacon wants dalmatics with very large sleeves that come to a long point underneath.  She says that the long point makes it easier for her to safeguard the chalice; all she has to do is grab hold of the pointy part and hold the whole sleeve back, away from the chalice.

Notes: The deacon on the left appears to be vested in an amice while the deacon on the right appears to be vested in a cassock-alb.  The two acolytes are vested in square yoke surplices.  Do you see that there's a bit of a fold in the cope just above the center back hem?  The face fabric is attached to the lining fabric all around the hem.  The face fabric sagged more than the lining fabric - and made the fold. The face fabric should not have been stitched to the lining.

(I would mention here - and this may be a fussy point - that the sleeves of the patterned dalmatic should have been pressed before the service. The sleeve crease causes the dalmatic sleeve to break badly, disrupting the line of the vestment.  The Altar Guild was remiss in allowing those dalmatics out of the sacristy without being pressed.  As I say, a fussy point.)

Other Crafts Used For Vestment Construction

Many (if not most) of my customers are involved in other fiber crafts; they are quilters, or they do hardanger, they may be skilled in hand embroidery or machine embroidery or, they are lace makers or they work with fabric paints or, they do cross stitch or needlepoint.  My customers are wildly creative!  And, all of these crafts transmute nicely into the crafts of linen and vestment making.