Liturgical Vestments

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Ecclesiastical Fabrics and Trims for Construction Of
Religious Vestments and Robes for Clergy, Servers, Organist and Choir
Catholic, Protestant, Orthodox

 

Our liturgical colors are a significant consideration for vestment makers.  The more we understand about our color traditions, the richer our designs will be liturgically.  As we begin to speak about vestment construction, I'd like you to take a few minutes to visit a very special website that discusses our liturgical colors.  This site was put up by a priest in my diocese and I think he did an excellent job with it.  I hope you enjoy it and find it as useful and informative as I have. 

http://fullhomelydivinity.org/articles/colors%20full%20page.htm  

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You're in the section of my website dedicated to Vestments.  At the top of the page, you will find the links that will move you around within this section.  At the bottom of the page are the links that will move you to another section - Linens, Of Special Interest or payment information.

Within this section is information about the various types of fabrics - some are inexpensive, some are expensive.  None of them are cheap.  Please keep in mind that, ultimately, the beauty of our vestments is determined by excellence of design and skill, not by cost.  The use of rich, luscious (expensive!) fabrics is only one way to achieve beauty.  

Not included in this section are the pages giving information about Custom Made Vestments, Custom Machine Embroidery and vestments for the Latin Mass.  These pages are located in the section of my website titled 'Of Special interest'. 

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Vestment Patterns

Please note: I usually sell my patterns SEPARATE from the instructions.  Because: You often won't need a pattern; you can take a pattern from the chasuble or dalmatic right there in your own sacristy.  If you want BOTH a pattern and the instruction booklet, you must order them both. My instruction booklets are listed under 'Books' (see the bottom of this page for the button).

Chasuble Master Pattern - $15 

Vestments are meant to be eloquent liturgical statements.  All possible elements of design contribute to the level of eloquence we achieve.  This includes the element of size.  I think it's unfortunate when a sacristy contains chasubles that are all of the same width and length.  I think it's unfortunate when clergy get the idea that they only 'look good' in a chasuble of only one size.  When this sort of thing happens, there is a loss of eloquence.  The green chasuble worn during the hot days of summer should look very different from the luxuriant festal chasubles of Easter and Christmas.  The purple Lenten chasuble may also be slim and spare while the Holy Week chasuble (either deep oxblood red or sack cloth) may be of the extra wide width so that it resembles a cope.  My master patterns are designed to help you achieve full flexibility in both width and length.  I recommend that you purchase the instruction book Constructing Chasubles and Dalmatics at the same time (see the above section).

Dalmatic Pattern - $15

This dalmatic pattern is quite simple and is designed to be enlarged or reduced as necessary to fit the deacon in question.   The body is lightly flared.  A simple neck shape is included that is centered upon the mid-line and shoulder seam after the proper fit is decided.  As with the Chasuble Master Pattern, I recommend that you purchase the instruction book, Constructing Chasubles and Dalmatics at the same time.  You'll need to make decisions about lining and orphrey construction and this information is in the instruction book.

Stole Patterns - $10

I offer three stole patterns: Priest's, Old Deacon's and New Deacon's.

The Priest's stole pattern is 4 inches wide at the bottom hems and narrows slightly into a gently curved neck that fits smoothly around the shoulders.  The center back seam is properly angled so that the ends hang straight down the front - they neither 'toe in' or 'toe out'.

The Old Deacon's stole pattern is 4 inches wide throughout.  The miter of the center seam must be adjusted for fit (larger people require a more open miter while small people require a tighter miter).  This pattern may be folded into two more miters to form the 'dog-leg' deacon's stole.  These miters must be placed so as to accommodate the girth of the deacon in question.  Often this requires that the upper front portion is longer than the upper back portion.  The fitting process for this pattern is extensive.  I'm not a fan of this type of deacon's stole.

The New Deacon's stole pattern may be 5 inches wide (or wider) at the bottom hems.  While the Old Deacon's stole typically requires quite a lot of fitting to get the miters in the right position (and the miters themselves are not the easiest thing in the world to do), this New Deacon's stole is simple to construct.  While this pattern is designed specifically for use by deacons, it harks back to the original stole concept when there were no 'Priest's' stole and there were no 'Deacon's stoles.  There were just 'stoles'!  Only one kind!  The priest may have worn the stole at the 8:00 service and the deacon wore the same stole for the 10:00 service.  Same stole!  Just worn differently.  When the stole was worn by the priest, it was secured into the cincture.  When the stole was worn by the deacon, it was secured with a half-knot at the waist or hip.  On this New Deacon's Stole Pattern, the portion above the half-knot is slim - like a diplomat's sash.  Below the half-knot, the stole flares into a wider area that is perfect for decoration.  The decoration may simply be a different color, a tapestry or velvet, or, this area may frame an embroidery.  Fringe always makes a nice hem finish.

Cassock-Alb or Anglican Cassock Master Pattern - $40

This is a very useful pattern because it is used by all manner of clergy, servers and the choir.  This is a Master Pattern; this means it contains a group of patterns: Children's Medium, two Adult sizes and an Extra-Large.  From this group of sizes, a competent seamstress/seamster should be able to construct an entire suite of graded patterns to fit just about anybody. 

When this garment is constructed of white or off-white or of a color, they're known as 'Cassock-albs'.  When it's constructed from black fabric, it's known as an 'Anglican Cassock' (as opposed to the 'Roman Cassock which is the one with the 27 buttons down the front). 

The Cassock-Alb is best described by the term 'double-breasted'.  That is, there are two fronts, one of which is fastened inside the right shoulder and the other is fastened on the outside of the left shoulder (or vice versa).  The fastening may be Velcro, snaps or a pair of self-covered buttons. it is constructed with pleats at both the front and the back of each shoulder, giving the vestment a sleek, linear appearance. It is important that the linear appearance be preserved even if the wearer is full-bodied.  This may be achieved by flaring the front and back pieces at the side seams.  Instructions for this are included in the instructions - which are included.  The cassock-alb may be worn with or without a cincture. 

Surplices - $15

I offer two types of surplices: The one with a round yoke and the one with the square yoke.  The round yoke surplice is from Lilla Weston's book written in 1914, Vestments and How To Make Them (see the Books and Pamphlets section to order this excellent book).  Vincent's book contains patterns for several surplices as well as cottas.

Vincent and Lilla - $12 each.

No group of vestment patterns would be complete without including mention of these two books.  The patterns listed above are full-sized patterns.  This is not the case with the patterns given in Lilla's book titled, Vestments And How To Make Them or Vincent's book, titled (are you ready for this?), The Cutters' Practical Guide To Cutting And Making All Kinds Of Tailor-Made Garments - Part XII - Clerical Dress.  You must draw their patterns out to full scale.  I'd recommend that you do this!  It's fun!  It's not like drawing out a gridded pattern.  Vincent's 'system' (which both Vincent and Lilla use) requires the use of a ruler and square to enlarge the patterns from small to full-size.  I've done this and very much enjoyed the process! (The square I used is just one of those 22 inch, clear plastic, right-angle triangles you probably already have in your desk - or one of the kid's desks.  Or, maybe it got out in the shop - I don't know where it is at your house!)

 

Fabrics

 

 

 

 

 

Kits

Clergy Stoles: Stole Kits

General Comments

Stoles are fun to make.  Stoles are deceptive.  Because they're small, they appear to be easy to make.  Stoles are deceptive.  Stoles are really fun to make!  I love to make stoles!  And, the first stole you make is going to be a bit of a trial - that's just the way stoles are - and you need to know this - before you begin!  Stoles are both tricky and picky. However!  Once you work your way through your first stole, you'll understand and all the rest of the stoles you make in your lifetime will be enjoyable, creative projects. 

To help you work through your first stole, I have designed a group of three simple kits that I call my ''Teaching Kits'. I've designed these kits to give you all the information you need.  My Teaching Kits include the 'Constructing Stoles' booklet, a pattern and all materials necessary to complete the stole - except thread. 

I offer three clergy stole patterns: Priest's, boring old deacon's and New deacon's.  The priest's stole has a rounded neck shape.  The boring old deacon's pattern is 4 inches wide and contains at least one miter (miters are very tricky to construct).  The New deacon's pattern is much better than the boring old.  Here's a picture of it: 

 

Clerical Stole Patterns

 

You need to tell me which pattern you want. 

Note: The Holy Spirit embroidery on this stole was custom done by a good friend, Tammy Maria Baker.  Tammy Maria does a great deal of custom work for my customers.  If you want embroidery on your stoles, we can arrange it.  However!  Not for your first stole.  Let's keep your first stole as simple as possible!

You also need to know that my Teaching Kits show you an entirely different method for constructing stoles. I call this method the 'Set-Back Method' because the lining is set back from the stole edge by about 1/4 inch.  This gives a tailored, sharp, clean look to the stole. It's a real 'signature' look.  I like very much and I think you will too. 

Here is a wonderful picture taken by a customer - Kathy. On the left in this picture is the reverse side of a stole worked with the set-back method.  Do you see how sharp and crisp it looks?  I like that!  On the right is a picture of Kathy's first stole - the Children of the World tapestry- made from one of my Teaching Kits (see below). (She added the lovely tassels - I wish I could say they are included in the kit but, I can't!)  In the middle of this photograph is Kathy's second stole! It's her own design and very beautiful!  These are all priest's stoles - you can see how nicely shaped they are around the back neck and shoulders.

 

Note: I have additional information available.  Please feel free to email me and ask for Stole Kit information and also for New Deacon's stole information.  

Teaching Stole Kits:

Each of these three kits cost $40.

Children Of The World Stole Kit. The face fabric of this stole is 'The Children Of The World' tapestry.

Polyester Stole Kits. This is my good polyester fabric that makes handsome stoles.  The colors are: Dark green, medium apple green, white, off-white, red, Roman purple (a red purple), indigo (a blue purple) and rose. Included in this kit is a second kit that I call The Simple and Beautiful Kit. While this kit is not for everything, it gives you a useful method for embellishing vestments, paraments and banners .............. simply and beautifully!

Dupioni Silk Stole Kits. Dupioni silk comes in vivid colors, is textural and has a lovely sheen.  The colors are: Medium forest green, teal green, deep red, Pentecost red, white, soft-white, Roman purple, indigo, rose, bright gold, old gold, silver and black.

My Teaching Stole Kits are guaranteed.  If you mess up your kit, simply pack up the stole and send it back to me.  I'll send you new materials.  I do this so I can see where you're having difficulty.  I can adjust my instructions so this doesn't happen to other people.  I've always offered this guarantee.  I've never had anyone take me up on it!

Note: We can also make up these simple kits in camouflage fabric for use by our military chaplains.  Contact me for information.

NEW Stole Kits

I spent a good deal of time this past summer designing a New group of stole kits. These New stole kits are meant for people who have already constructed a Teaching Stole and are ready to work on a project that is more advanced. If you have never made a stole before - even if you are an experienced seamstress/seamster, I do not recommend these kits!

The clergy stoles shown below are pictures of the kits I have available (there is also a purple stole but, I haven't finished stitching up the edge yet).  Or, we can custom design any color or combination of fabrics you want.  As you look at these stoles, notice the different fabrics: Damask, brocade, tapestry and dupioni silk. 

Please note: If you choose, we can design a chasuble or dalmatic to match any of these stoles - or, your custom design. Please contact me for information.

Like my Teaching Stole Kits, these New kits include everything you need to complete the stole (face fabrics, interfacing, lining, galloon and fringe).  These New kits do not, however, include either the pattern or the Constructing Stoles instruction pamphlet because, having completed a Teaching Kit, you already have both the pattern and the instructions.  I don't need to sell them to you twice!

While all the photographs shown above are priest's stoles, they may all be constructed using my New Deacon's stole pattern.

You have the opportunity to 'custom design' your stole kit.  You can see that there are four types of fabrics available: Damasks, brocades, silks and tapestries.  The upper portions of the red stole, the green stole and the white stole as well as the bottom portion of the blue stole are damasks.  The bottom portion of the red stole is brocade (red and gold).  The top portion of the blue stole is dupioni silk.  The bottom portion of the green stole is Verona tapestry and the bottom portion of the white stole is Aragon tapestry.  For your stole, you may choose whichever combination you want. 

I'm very pleased with these stoles!  My customers who have purchased these kits have reported back to say that they are pleased too! 

One customer had Tammy Maria do machine embroidery on the bottom portion of her white damask stole.  The green central cross may be any color.  Please note that this design has become skewed in the photography process.  The arms of the cross are really all the same length.  While I don't have a picture of the entire stole, here is a picture of the embroidery:

 

 

I have these stoles here in my workroom and I have to say that the photographs do not do them justice.  They're even lovelier than they look here on my web site.  The colors are clearer and richer. The red stole, for instance, as it is shown here appears to be a clear, Christmas red.  In actuality, the color is deeper; a more penitential red.  If you were wanting a Pentecost or Christmas red, I'd direct you toward a different damask and brocade (or tapestry or dupioni silk). 

Constructing a project like this is a highly creative process - I know that!  I know that you want your project to be individual rather than something 'stock' and 'off the shelf'.  We can do this.  It will require a couple of phone calls or emails in which you tell me what you want to achieve and I help you make it happen.  I do this with my customers all the time.  I enjoy it!

The prices of these stole kits depend upon your choice of fabric combination:

$80 - Dupioni silk with damask or brocade

$90 - Dupioni silk with tapestry

$100 - Damask with damask or brocade

$110 - Damask with tapestry  

Note: I've just reduced the prices of these stoles to reflect the lower exchange rate between the US dollar and British pound sterling.


 I want to emphasize: These New stole kits are not meant for beginners.  Nor are they meant for expert seamstresses/seamsters who have never made a stole before!  They are meant for people who have already worked through one of the Teaching Stole Kits.  If you have worked through a Teaching Stole Kit, you know the basics of stole construction and are ready to take on this project.

Email me for an up to date Online Vestment Kit Catalogue or the Online Ecclesiastical Fabric Catalogue. obunny@roadrunner.com

Click here for Vestment Patterns

Click here for Vestment Fabrics

Click here for Custom Made Vestments

 

There's a consideration to which I want to draw your attention: other crafts.  Many (if not most) of my customers are involved in other fiber crafts; they are quilters, or they do hardanger, they may be skilled in hand embroidery or machine embroidery or, they are lace makers or they work with fabric paints or, they do cross stitch.  My customers are wildly creative!  And, all of these crafts transmute nicely into the crafts of linen and vestment making. 

A sorrow for me is that, while I was in the 'travelling portion' of this ministry (before I opened this website and became chained to my computer!), I saw so many creative examples of other crafts being used to embellish linens and vestments - and I didn't take pictures!  While I have some pictures, I don't have nearly as many as I wish I had.

There was a white stole with hardanger inserts.  The hardanger was tied with very fine golden threads and the insert was backed with a medium blue taffeta that showed through, emphasizing the gold threads.  I wish I had that photograph!

I do have the photograph of a stole worked in watercolor quilting.  I'll get it up here as soon as I can.  (If I forget, call me and nag!) 

Another wonderful stole belongs to my Bishop; it's counted cross stitch - a softly off-white Aida cloth worked with Wedgewood blue, olive green and cranberry.  The design consists entirely of a simple, attractive edging pattern worked all around the edges of the stole with a heavier border above the bottom hems. 

The three embroideries on my Main Home Page are fine examples of gold and silk-work hand embroidery.

Machine embroidery is another marvelous resource.  I have one customer who is expert at machine embroidery and is also a graduate of the Royal School of Needlework.  She combines these two skills.  She does a gold/silk machine embroidery and then uses her handwork skills to expand and embellish the machine embroidery further.  The result is wonderful!

I have quite a lot of customers who work various types of lace - knitted, crochet and, recently, a bobbin lace maker.  Lace has many uses - as inserts in albs, surplices and cassock-albs, as super-frontals and edging for the ends of fair linens or around the hems of credence cloths.  I have a photograph of an antique crochet lace triangle shape placed at the end of a fair linen.  The pattern is the descending dove.  There's a small tassel at the tip. 

Many years ago, I attended a display of hand made vestments.  A white silk cope was shown - very simple but full around the hem.  The hem was decorated with the most lovely border worked in fabric paint.  The colors were rose and green and blue.  I didn't have a camera! 

Speaking of which - I do have photographs of an outstanding cope worked in applique. The title of it is 'Creation'.  I'll check with it's 'Mother' and see if she'll let me put it up here. 

I could go on and on ........... and on!  But, I think you get the idea!  Your other crafts can be used right along with your linen and vestment making crafts.

ONE CAUTION: Let's not set out to create a work of art until you know the basic techniques for constructing the linen or vestment in question!  Take the time to learn the basic skills before going forward to create your work of art.  

 

 

 

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57 West Mountain Road
Queensbury, NY 12804
518-798-9637
obunny@roadrunner.com